La douce France has outdone herself yet again.

A basic post-colonial inventory, to situate us:

Item: One (1) human head. Mummified. Provenance: New Zealand.
Item: One (1) patrimoine national français. Gloriously preserved. Exquisitely curated. Contents: châteaux, medieval armaments, lighthouses, churches, monasteries, stolen Maori human remains, etc. Provenance: ci et là, eh beh je sais plus mais c’est beau, hein?
Item: One (1) insane, self-righteous, paranoid-nationalist ministre de la culture. Provenance: Toulouse / one of François Fillon’s many deep, dark closets.

French Debate: Is Maori Head Body Part or Art? [NYT]
Rouen n’en fait qu’à sa tête [Libération]

Thing is, one of the many insidious things about colonialism is that it causes people to traffic in human remains. And then to put stolen remains, like this mummified Maori head, on display in museums. And to call those stolen remains part of one’s own “patrimoine national.”

One of the many insidious things about European metropoles’ tendency toward post-colonial oblivion is that those practices don’t get revised once the whole colonial project has been soundly denounced by basically everyone.

Now, it’s true that there are bits and pieces of Barbaric Peoples all over the damned place in museums in the west. (Interestingly, though the NYT claims there are 30 Maori heads in the Museum of Natural History, it’s not possible to find them through the museum’s website. “No, no, no heads here!” Says the site. “Pretty photographs and mildly condescending language in abundance, but nope! No actual heads! Move along, move along!”)

But we all love France, reader, because really, only in France could the minister of culture get away with freezing a city tribunal to insist that a mummified head (a human head, reader. a head. that once belonged to someone.) should not be returned to its Antipodean home, on the grounds that such an “atteinte injustifiée au patrimoine national” might set a dangerous precedent that would cause the historic and artistic centers of France to dissolve.

… I had written additional commentary. But it is completely unnecessary, I realize. Atteinte! Injustifiée! Patrimoine fucking national! Is anyone else snarfing her coffee / falling about / trying not to burst into horrified, humiliated tears?

Douce France, cher pays de mon enfance, bercée de tendre insouciance, je t’ai gardée dans ma tête mummifiée… Douce France… la la la…